Friday, 25 January 2019

Pak 38

And here's the Warlord Pak 38. It can be built into a reasonably nice model, but it is not the greatest cast out of the mould. The barrel especially needs to be shaped before assembly. In hindsight I probably should have replaced it using a PSC plastic barrel from the Russian AT kit, and made my own muzzle brake.

Order of build is important. Leave the trails off till just before attaching the lower front shield.
1. Straighten axle assembly, glue on left hand side of mount, make sure the front angle exactly corresponds to the fixed right hand side. If necessary, once glued, use a flat file to get the correct angle.
2. Attach barrel. Check how straight this is on the mount, as the little lip on the underside of the recoil mechanism is not flat out out of the mould.
3. Attach wheels or main shield either will do. If attaching wheels, you may find it easier to make parallel scores in corrugated cardboard or similar as a jig to keep them aligned straight when glued.
4. Attach the bit you didn't do in 3.
5. Bend down slighly the lower part of the pivot assembly on the trails, attach trails (note that the towing eye goes to the inside, as do the handles) and gently squeeze teh pivot hinge back into place. glue from underside.
6 Attach lower shield. You may find (depending on wheel assembly) that you need to file down the edges slightly to make it fit between the wheels. I ran into all sorts of issues and it isn't straight. I am going to file it slightly to make it less obvious.

The result:



And isn't it annoying how in large images you notice stuff you don't with the naked eye? There is flash on the traverse control and a weird bulge in the barrel just forward of the recuperator slide. Ah well. It won't be noticeable when painted. (I hope).

3 comments:

  1. Tried 3 times to glue the barrel on - the mounting does not have enough contact point to make a good solid join with the barrel. Perhaps I should have glues it on before the wheels so I could strap it in place while it dried

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  2. Yep, you need to get the barrel on before the wheels I think. Otherwise it's hard to apply clamps or pressure without bending/breaking the wheel/axle.

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